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| Turbo, Boosting, Forced-Induction; turbos turbos | |
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| Topic Started: Mar 3 2009, 01:04 AM (352 Views) | |
| Be_Yoo | Mar 3 2009, 01:04 AM Post #1 |
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Loving Bastard Stepchild of 240sx Family
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The Beginner's Guide to Turbo Made Simple(sort of) Turbos, turbos, turbos... who doesn't like large power gains from forced induction? It can turn a 9 second 0-60 car like mine (92' Mazda Miata 1.6 b6P I-4) into a auto transmission 350z killer... smoking it in a quarter mile in just 14.5 seconds. That's without an intercooler or a Fuel Management system/tune So where to begin... 1.) Budget $$$ How much money do you want to spend? Brands make a giant difference. I have a Greddy System. It's the 15g-TD4-0h used in Eclipse GS-T, Talon TSi and 300zx twin turbos(has two of this suckers). It is costly to replace... like $600 bucks for the turbo alone! But Garrett is just as nice and I saw a t3/t4 go for $50 somewhere. There's also high end turbos like Borg Warner (that will turns your vehicle into a time machine. You'll swear that time slows down everytime you floor the gas. ![]() 2.) Time... Do you have time to research and be stressed out? It's going to use every brain/will power you got to get your turbo running right. Installing can also be a b!tch, because chances are you will have to remove, reroute lines, tubes, piping, drill holes, whatever it takes basically. If you don't know how to change your oil, I don't recommend installing a turbo alone... let alone use tools. You may drill a hole through your eyes and then saw your fingers off somehow in the process. 3. Turbo size, Intercooler Core Size: Don't go too crazy: like I said research. The bigger the turbo, doesn't necessarily make your car crazy fast. If your turbos too big for your motor, expect Super-duper Lag and uber-long spool times in between shifts. You want balance. What is your goal? 10 second car? Auto-X? Daily Driver? Drifting? Spirited Driving(fun factor)? Larger Intercoolers have good cooling abilities, but it will lose some pressure. Where are you gonna mount it? Do you have room? Whatever your reasons, see what has been done and what is reasonable. How much power can your stock motor hold? Do you have good compression in all your cylinders? Do you need a metal Head Gasket, ARP studs, forged internals? Money will dictate how far you'll go in progress. Most likely you'll have the turbo parts laying around your car before you have everything. 4.) Be ready to spend ass-load of $$$ Again I stress this. You will have to save up, and create a budget. You will easily spend a couple of thousand to do it right. I use forums and ebay. Create a paypal account and only deal with people with good Feedback. Shipping options should always include a Tracker to see if where your hard-earned money parts you bought are at. 5.) Be ready to never be able to complete your car. This is an ongoing project... and for some reason, it's always younger guys like us with almost no cash that have high hopes and big dreams to get our car the way we want them... when that baby comes... be ready to sell your car and get a Civic hatch like the rest of them Ricer Dads. What you need to Turbo your car... 1.) The Turbo: turbine, compressor, housing, braided oil return lines (any size that will fit your car... applications vary and has different characteristics... like quick spooling, higher rpm spools, lower rpm spools, lag...etc) ![]() ![]() ![]() 2.) Turbo manifold: bolts onto your exhaust and your turbo (note: Turbo cars do not use Headers) ![]() 3.) Down pipe: runs down from manifold to the exhaust of your choice ![]() 4.) External Wastegate: from turbo manifold [See number 2] 5.) Intercooler, brackets, intercooler piping that goes from the turbo to intercooler to intake manifold 6.) Blow Off Valve(prevent compressor surge) 7.) You may want to recirculate the air to go from B.O.V. to turbo outlet(reduces lag) NOTE: you want to recirculate at LOW BOOST only. On the other hand if you are running at higher PSI's, a vented B.O.V rids the excess air and you experience the massive ppsssshhhh! 8.) Boost controller: you can make your own... diy boost controller...google it 9.) 370cc or greater fuel injectors and optional(better fuel pump e.g. Walbro 255LPH High Pressure Fuel Pumps)(s13 sr20det injectors are 370cc) 10.) Map sensor and bung holes to fit them in if your using certain Engine Management Systems 11.) Fuel management(safc, piggyback, standalone ems)... or Vortech FMU 12:1 disc 10:1...etc 12.) Wideband O2 sensor and optional air/fuel meter 13.) Dyno tune it... to even out the powerband 14.) Boost gauge 15.) Turbo timer(allows car to idle to cool down compressor and not burn oil) 16.) Better Clutch: Stage 1,2,3... clutch Now that you have all that power, you want it to be able to get to the wheels!!! 17.) I also recommend a large Aluminum Radiator/electric fan/low temp thermostat: You need all the cooling you can get. More Combustion = Hotter Internals. Cooling it will reduce the likelihood of overheating and massive engine failure. 18.) Maybe a Limited slip differential: So your rear end won't be sliding all over the road. Installing it? Prices? Time? I will update Pics later!!! Hope this helps Extra Info Turbos will use up more oil(you will still use the recommended amount of quarts in an oil change). The rerouted oil will burn, and you may see oil in your intercooler and pipes which is completely normal. The best way to keep the oil out of your intake is to install an oil catch can(to collect the excess oil) and have turbo timer, which will give your turbo time to cool down after you turn off your car to prevent further burning of the oil. Half a quart per 5,000 miles is normal. If your burning more than this then the this oil seals may have gone out and you may need to rebuild the turbo. There are cheap oil seal kits for about 100 bucks in that case. If there's too much shaft play in the turbine, or you see the fins tattered up, you may want to replace the turbo itself. |
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| Nick Merrone | Mar 3 2009, 01:39 AM Post #2 |
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eat me.
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This is worth being a pinned topic. (: |
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| Be_Yoo | Mar 3 2009, 12:01 PM Post #3 |
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Loving Bastard Stepchild of 240sx Family
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I feel honored!!! No really I do. I'm going to edit it so it looks better with pics and price range and installation too. |
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| ChukiDori | Mar 3 2009, 03:15 PM Post #4 |
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I dunno about the 400cc + injectors part... A KA24 can make 250 WHP and 270ish TQ with no problem on SR injectors Much cheaper.
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| Nick Merrone | Mar 3 2009, 04:15 PM Post #5 |
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eat me.
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sick dude do it. |
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| Be_Yoo | Mar 4 2009, 08:39 AM Post #6 |
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Loving Bastard Stepchild of 240sx Family
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ChukiDori You Are right! The stock s13's Sr20det injectors are rated at 370 cc's per minute.The 400cc part was just a guesstimate for me. Thanks for the correction. But injectors are pretty affordable. I saw a set of 4 Nismo 740cc Fuel Injectors for $150. And they're rated for over +400HP. My little 1.6B6P Miata has the Light Green Top 305cc injectors from a Toyota Supra 7MGE. I'm running pretty rich, from the larger injectors and 12:1 disc FMU. But running rich has it's advantages, reduces detonation, keeps internals cooler(without intercooler), you can increase boost, and plus you get that awesome backfire to scare away tailgaters and set fire to your grass.
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| SylverZenki | May 15 2009, 12:11 AM Post #7 |
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fail-o-matic s14 n00b
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whered you see 740cc injectors for that cheap?! that would save a ton for my build heres my currentl build thanks to your guide S14 Sr20det Hks Hi power Ti (85mm piping) z32 MAf Hks air filter Cxracing Fmic Enjuku MR manifold HKs down pipe Tial 38mm wastegate Hks ssqv AEM tru boostgauge/controller 255 walboro fuel pump 740cc nismo injectors(if i can find cheap ass ones like you did) Apexi s-afc (i dont quiet understand if and do i need a fuel management system) oil catch can Wide band o2(where can i find a good one for cheap?) excedy stage 2 clutch ACT flywheel(if i got extra funds) Isis radiator LSD(i can find one for cheap maybe) Hks turbo timer ON TOP OF THAT I NEED COIOVERS!! and other suspension crap like strut bars, better tires, but brakes i got covered though, (5 lug swap with r32 calipers and z32 rotors) Got a lot planned but idk if i can afford it all got a budget of about 5k... and i might need to do my project earlier than expected KA is gonna go out soon i feel it ;[ i should get most of that down with that amount right? |
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| Nick Merrone | May 15 2009, 09:30 AM Post #8 |
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eat me.
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you can do it man..as you take stuff off the car, just sell it (; |
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| SylverZenki | May 15 2009, 12:56 PM Post #9 |
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fail-o-matic s14 n00b
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aww haha yeah i know a few people here dying for som s14 parts lool. xP |
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| 240Smoke | May 15 2009, 01:15 PM Post #10 |
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[]D [] []\/[] []D
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Just adding my 2 cents...
The limited slip is to put power to both wheels so that you have better grip and dont have the gay one wheel burnout.
That is price per injector
This is not normal and most likely means your seals are going. The oil you may be seeing in your intake is most likely coming out of your valve cover, that is where you hook up your oil catch can. Other than that, this is a pretty good write up. |
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| Nick Merrone | May 15 2009, 01:29 PM Post #11 |
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eat me.
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All that is very true.. The LSD acts as a POSI rear for us. Rather then having the one wheel spinning, it will have both wheels spinning..I have the VLSD, which is the one offered from nissan with the hicas option, actually it came with the hicas option. As for the 740cc injectors, I doubt even having them be 150 a peice.. |
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| SylverZenki | May 16 2009, 08:00 PM Post #12 |
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fail-o-matic s14 n00b
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150 each sounds about right nick idk. ughh enjuku sells 740cc for around there iirc. |
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| mikemontanti | Sep 28 2009, 11:50 AM Post #13 |
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carfanatic driftaholic
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anybody know what turbo dsm injectors are rated. edit:well nvm i found it...they are 390cc and low impedence so now my ? is any idea what i would have to do to make them work in my car. other that splice pigtails...the reason i ask is i have a set.
Edited by mikemontanti, Sep 28 2009, 12:05 PM.
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| 240Smoke | Sep 28 2009, 01:12 PM Post #14 |
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[]D [] []\/[] []D
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arent they top feed injectors? KA and SRs are sidefeed so you would need to get a new fuel rail. |
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| mikemontanti | Sep 28 2009, 01:17 PM Post #15 |
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carfanatic driftaholic
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single cam is top feeed |
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Much cheaper.
The stock s13's Sr20det injectors are rated at 370 cc's per minute.The 400cc part was just a guesstimate for me. Thanks for the correction. But injectors are pretty affordable. I saw a set of 4 Nismo 740cc Fuel Injectors for $150. And they're rated for over +400HP. My little 1.6B6P Miata has the Light Green Top 305cc injectors from a Toyota Supra 7MGE. I'm running pretty rich, from the larger injectors and 12:1 disc FMU. But running rich has it's advantages, reduces detonation, keeps internals cooler(without intercooler), you can increase boost, and plus you get that awesome backfire to scare away tailgaters and set fire to your grass.
12:56 PM May 20