| S14 Cluster Shroud w/Greddy Turbo Timer and Boost Controller | |
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| Topic Started: Nov 7 2010, 03:52 AM (408 Views) | |
| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 03:52 AM Post #1 |
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I want to start posting up my builds to share with everyone else. I will post as I do the work. This customer wants his Greddy turbo timer and Greddy boost controller molded into his S14 cluster shroud in place of the dimmer switch on the left and the on/off switches on the right. The customer marked where he wanted them located with masking tape and a pen, then shipped the shroud to me. Since the cavities for the switches are taller than the casing of the controllers, the extra area will have to be filled in for a nice finished look. I will also build the area out very slightly to where the units mount.    First thing is to cut out the tape to reveal where I need to cut the plastic:  Even though I'm going to fill all around the edge of the controllers, I like to get the initial cut as close as I can. So basically everything but where the switch holes are will be close to a perfect fit. This will help hold the units in place while I fill around them:  Quick test fit:  Next up is to use masking tape to cover the front half of the units. The outer side of the masking tape is kind of "waxy", so the glue/filler I use to fill the edges won't stick to it very well. This will ease in the removing of the units once the glue/filler has dried:  I also roughed up the surrounding area around the opening with 24 grit sandpaper... you may be able to see it a little in the above pic. This will help the glue/filler stick to the plastic. |
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| diggles240 | Nov 7 2010, 11:41 AM Post #2 |
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Old Fart!
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Can you list the products that are used for the glue/filler material? 3M.... or whatever. I need to repair my radio trim bezel (imagine that) and would like to use something with a similar rate of expansion. Thanks. |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 08:37 PM Post #3 |
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LOL, you are in luck, because that just happens to be in my next post! |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 08:38 PM Post #4 |
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This is with the glue/filler applied. I use a 3M product called Duramix 4247. It's a pretty expensive setup, as you need the product, a special application gun and tips. But there is nothing else like it. It's a 2-part mix that dries hard in a few seconds and it sticks to plastic. It dries rock hard in a few minutes and then can be sanded/shaped. However, it's not like an epoxy which is brittle. This stuff has a very, very slight elasticity to it... so it's perfect for plastic. It's thick enough that it will fill small to medium gaps, it can be easily sanded and painted.  
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| Troskinatior | Nov 7 2010, 08:44 PM Post #5 |
Fap-Master Fap
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I want to see the finished product!!! I love your work and how everything you do is super clean |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 09:10 PM Post #6 |
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With the units popped out. Next will be sanding the front of the opening down, which will yield an opening that fits the units perfectly. 
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| diggles240 | Nov 7 2010, 09:14 PM Post #7 |
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Old Fart!
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^ yes. I am also interested to see how you finish the edge between the filler and the 'textured' plastic. I know paint blending will not be an issue- just the over sand part.... |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 09:17 PM Post #8 |
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Wow, you guys are anxious! I guess I'll just keep posting away...... |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 09:21 PM Post #9 |
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This is after a quick, rough sanding to get the overall shape and high spots down. I used an air sander with 24 grit to knock the high spots down quickly. Then went back with a sanding block and 80 grit to get the front flat and true.   I then built up the surrounding area with some Rage Gold body filler:    Next, I will sand that down with 80 grit and fill some more where needed. Then fade/blend out the edges to the surrounding plastic. Stay tuned. |
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| Troskinatior | Nov 7 2010, 09:25 PM Post #10 |
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Fap-Master Fap
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Whooo!!! |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 09:26 PM Post #11 |
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This is after the first rough sand. I use this step to get my overall shape and see if I like it. I then can go back and add more filler if I have to, or if I am happy with the overall shape, I will simply do a second coat to fill in the low spots etc.   I was happy with the shape, so I added more to fill in the low spots. Then I sanded that with 120 grit:    A quick test fit to make sure we are on track. I need them very slightly loose. That way after I add texture and paint, they will fit the way I want them to:    Next will be a layer of glaze filler to fill in the tiny pin holes you see and to help feather the edge where filler meets plastic. Then it will be a texture coat on the original area that was textured, then satin black SEM over the entire thing. I'll be back. |
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| diggles240 | Nov 7 2010, 09:30 PM Post #12 |
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Old Fart!
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The texture coat is what I want to know more about/see the results of. |
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| Troskinatior | Nov 7 2010, 09:31 PM Post #13 |
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Fap-Master Fap
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<3 |
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| Troskinatior | Nov 7 2010, 09:31 PM Post #14 |
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Fap-Master Fap
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this also |
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| Broadfield | Nov 7 2010, 09:37 PM Post #15 |
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Yeah, it will actually get several doses of texture. The first dose will be to see how it covers the sanding marks, contours, pinholes etc. I will actually use it as a filler. I will then sand that down then do another texture coat. If all of the imperfections are gone, and the texture is to my liking, I will keep it and then simply paint it with the color of my choice. Otherwise I will sand that down again and do it over. |
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